1/6/2024 0 Comments Botrytis blight of gladiolus![]() ![]() Low storage temperature alone is not effective in preventing Botrytis rot. Destroy all diseased corms as quickly as possible.Hold corms for 5 days at 80☏ and for 2 weeks at 70☏ to cure corms to the same extent. Results were good at lower temperatures, but more time was required. Best results are from curing 48 hr at 95☏, turning corms once after 24 hr and circulating the air at 200 cu ft/min. Cure corms as quickly as possible after digging.Rot may start at the base and spread from the core through the corm or may start at any point on the corm. Under moist conditions the whole flower becomes slimy with rot.Ĭorm rot-tan to light brown rotted areas that are wet or spongy. As petal spots enlarge, dead tissue turns light brown. At first, petals develop translucent water-soaked spots. Soft rotting at bases of florets may follow heavy rain. Flowers develop pale brown, then dark-brown spots on the flower stem. Leaves develop large, round-to-oval brown spots, smaller pale brown spots with red-brown margins, and very small rusty-brown spots that usually show on the leaf's exposed side. Symptoms A variety of leaf and flower spots. Latent infections may cause significant postharvest losses when in transit to market. Usually, infection is too late to seriously interfere with the plant's growth and development however, spores may wash down to the corms or spread to the corms during digging time to cause serious losses from corm rots. High humidity and leaf wetness are needed for infection and sporulation. The leaf and flower spot phase of the disease is most prevalent in northern Washington, where weather often favors fungal buildup on flowers and old foliage late in the season. They survive in soil as sclerotia and as mycelium on plant debris. Just pay attention to the corm in the beginning so that if there are problems with gladiola disease, you can nip it in the bud.Cause Botrytis gladiolorum, and possibly B. Keeping your gladiolus problem-free isn't too difficult. They need sunlight, so remember this when you plant them. This will give you a continuous beautiful crop of gladiolus for about six weeks or so in the summer. Finally, you can start planting the gladiola corms in mid-May, after making sure they are free of gladiolus pests and can continue to plant them until the end of June every two weeks or so. This is why they should be planted in areas where they are protected from the wind, such as against a garage or back of the house. Gladiolus will fall over easily in the wind once they grow. This will help eliminate problems with growing gladiolus. You can also dust your corms with carbaryl, soak them in Lysol and water, or dip them in hot water for a couple of minutes. Thrips will not survive these conditions. (2-4 C.) is the best way to keep the corms disease-free. Keeping the corms in a cool, dry place between 35 and 40 degrees F. Gladiola disease can start as early as with the corms. The best way to prevent gladiolus pests is to treat the corms before you store them for the winter. They can cause the growth to be stunted and the leaves to turn streaky. They can cause the flowers to be funny-shaped. Thrips are little insects that attack the corms while they are overwintering. If the leaves on your gladiolus are somewhat streaky, you may be infested with thrips. Always start with sound corms to prevent gladiolus problems. ![]() If they feel soft or are somewhat crumbly, they are no good and should be thrown away. When you plant your gladiolus, you should check out the corms before planting them. Gladiola disease is not limited to viruses, however. You may have to dig up the gladiolus and start with fresh corms. This is the worst thing to deal with because the worst gladiola disease is a virus. If you have gladiolus that are already growing and they are showing signs of yellowing leaves or even have flowers that seem stunted without opening before they start turning brown, your gladiolus problem is probably a virus. ![]()
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